MACHINES

Coil Driven Tattoo Machines

I build my machines out of the finest quality materials. Most of the coil machine frame styles I offer are borrowed from the old timers and are my interpretations of those classic designs. This is meant to show my deep respect to those who came before and to whom we are all indebted.

Each machine style has a blurb about its particulars. All shaders are built upon the same basic geometry, as are the liners. So, for the most part, the side plates designs are an aesthetic choice, although a few of them will dictate what groupings they will work best for. The frames are usually 3 piece, and are welded and/or brazed and feature hand wound coils. They come with the hardware shown and the standard version of most machines come with black tape on the coils. I have found my machines to work best with Blitz Tubes, but will fit all 5/16" tubes. The chuck is a pinch vise style which lasts longer than other styles, and won't damage tubes. Please write me to inquire about any other specifics you might like to know about.

Standard VS. Custom

What is considered Standard vs. Custom you ask? A "Standard" machine has an oil blackened finish, black tape coil covers, and standard hardware. Custom machines have fancy coil covers, engraved or painted frames, fancy hardware, etc. Customized machines are going to cost more as I put more into crafting them.

Your choice of framestyle can also affect pricing. Jonseys, Dietzels, and One-Off frames cost more due to the labor that goes into them. Please refer to the Pricing Section for more info on options.

Below are pictures of the same type of machine showing the differences.

Rotary Machines

Contrary to a lot of public opinion these days, this is not a new technology. Rotaries have been used to tattoo longer than most of us have been alive or at least tattooing. The motors and components have just been drastically improved upon, giving new life and usefulness to these types of machines.

While there is a small learning curve when first using them, most experienced tattooers will adjust to them quickly and realize that they have just added a very reliable, consistent and fun tool to their tattoo arsenal. The needle throw, or stroke, is set by how much you back the needle up into the tube during setup. They have extremely long stokes, and it is a matter of personal preference as to where you like yours setup. When used properly, they cause very little trauma to the skin and pack in color very efficiently. They can also be used as liners, and you can see some of my friends' tattoo work done with these rotary machines by clicking here.

Here is the lowdown on these "spinners"

They all feature, handmade frames, with Swiss precision made surgical instrumentation grade motors. These motors are DC, and will run on any standard power supply.

Weight is about the same as a coil machine (8.5 oz) for the full frame version, lighter (6.0-6.5oz.) for the canister and Olde English styles.

Tube vice is a standard split-pinch style, eliminating crushed tubes.

The Full Frame and Canister style machine's motors operate at about 9-12 volts depending on how fast you like to tattoo. They will push 7 to 15 mags no problem, and can tattoo just about any kind of style of tattooing out there. From whip shading traditional, solid color packing, and black and grey, they can do it all.

The Olde English machines are a bit more powerful, and should really only be used people with previous experience with rotaries. They are a step up in the power department and have more torque. This allows them to push larger groupings with ease and still be able to be turned way down for smaller needles without choking out. These motors operate between 5-8 volts.

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